Aura and flowing motion at Dior Spring-Summer 2024 haute couture show

Set in the gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris, an installation by Italian artist Isabella Ducrot adorned the walls of the room hosting the presentation of the haute couture collection created by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Entitled Big Aura, the monumental work comprised twenty-three oversized dresses, some five meters high.

The Creative Director of Dior women’s lines sees Big Aura as emblematic of the aura that informs each haute couture piece. Referencing Walter Benjamin’s definition of aura as a reflection of the uniqueness and authenticity of a work of art, Maria Grazia Chiuri retraces the concept through haute couture, which embodies the ultimate excellence and essence of fashion. The La Cigale dress – designed by Christian Dior for his fall-winter 1952 collection – becomes the starting point for the collection through its sculptural construction and moiré fabric.  

The undulating appearance and iridescence of moiré modulates in a palette of gold, burgundy, blue and red hues. Architectural elegance is expressed in coats with imposing collars, wide skirts revealing exaggerated cut-outs, overlapping layers, pants and jackets. Silhouettes inspired by the trench coat are given a contemporary accent. Black velvet dresses emphasize flowing motion, while capes elongate silhouettes, including a sumptuous feather version over an embroidered double organza dress. Exquisite embroidery savoir-faire plays with transparency and the Millefiori motif adorns an elegant yellow moiré dress. Polka dots and pleats, including on an immaculate white dress, perpetuate the artistic aura of haute couture.