LOEWE Spring-Summer 2025 Men’s collection: A Radical Act of Restraint

At La Garde Républicaine in Paris, Jonathan Anderson aligned his collection with iconic figures of 20th century art and design. The LOEWE Creative Director’s vision channeled the thinking of Susan Sontag and objects by Peter Hujar, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Carlo Scarpa and Paul Thek. 

With faces veiled by elongated feathers, the men’s silhouettes seemed to emerge from a fairy tale or myth, walking with a breath of freedom. From the outset, the tailoring offered a lesson in elegance and precision as looks unfolded with compelling twists. Skin-revealing metallic waistcoats evoke watchband links. Bare-chested silhouettes accentuate billowing draped pants. Knit floral form shirts spiral down to the thighs. Luxe materials reveal linings as refined as the exterior. Shiny leather finishes on ensembles reveal legs, and capes look ready to take flight.  

While checks were the dominant motif, a polo shirt hand-embroidered with feathers in a houndstooth pattern showcased breathtaking detail. Japanese Shibori dyeing is used for white tops as light as scarves, expressing LOEWE’s deep attachment to centuries-old craft techniques. LOEWE once again demonstrated its art of illusion as double-circled ostrich leather belts linked tops and pants, drawing the eyes to the waist. A subtle reflection on the male body and garment construction for looks as unbridled and radical as the collection itself.