Feminine power on the podium at Dior Couture Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 show

As the Paris Games draw near, Maria Grazia Chiuri created an haute couture collection that celebrates the body. Sporting influences from Antiquity to the present and a political vision of gender equity in competition resonated throughout the collection.     

Mosaics by artist Faith Ringgold (1930-2024), recreated by Chanakya artisans, capture the gaze. The colorful backdrop of woman athletes aligned perfectly with the monochrome silhouettes on the runway. Freedom of women’s bodies, a favorite theme of Dior’s Creative Director for women’s collections, once again enjoyed pride of place. She introduced jersey to the world of couture as a metal mesh in gold, silver and white, embracing the shape of the body. Ultralight inner bustiers structure the outfits. Sports jerseys are appropriated and adorned with gold leaves or micro sequins.   

Pleats and draping are featured in many of the pieces, as skirts reveal a pair of pants at each step, their fringes amplifying the movement. Fabrics seem sculpted to the body, evoking statuary in silk dresses magnified by embroidery. The antique peplum becomes contemporary in the collection. Walking in gladiator sandals, the neo-Amazons wear dresses hanging from one shoulder, revealing transparent metallic tank tops trimmed in satin. Embroidered mini mirrors echo the mosaics with moiré effects and golden fabrics evoke precious molten liquids. A standout red dress – the ‘color of life’ according to Christian Dior – culminated this celebration of the body.